tofino surfing: tuberiding

Tofino surfing: Tuberiding

by Adam Smallwood, Tofino

B


Barrel, tube, box, keg, shack, pit, Bazza, crystal cathedral, green room, blue room, Whatever you want to call it—this has to be the ultimate place and time in surfing. Its not an easy one to describe as it has to be one of the most dynamic and sacred experiences in surfing. This is the stuff of dreams.

The Tofino area is not known for its barrels, but I would have to say that there is at least one opportunity at every go out to get a barrel. Most of them are closeouts and you will most likely never make it out, but every once in a while you do and it can keep you buzzing for days. I get flak from my friends for pulling into anything that remotely looks like a barrel, only to travel a short distance inside before getting eaten. “What’s the point” seems to be the question. Well, first of all even a split second inside seems longer. Don’t ask me how, but time slows down in there.

Second, tube riding is not easy and this is a great way to learn how to ride them. You need to learn how to find them and how to travel through them.

Sometimes the best waves are the ones that make their way to the inside sandbars as the water is shallower making for hallow waves. Your friends will be wondering why you seem to be caught inside with a big smile on your face. Most barrelling waves break in shallow water so watch out for the bottom. If your going to bail then pull deeper and fall back into the foam.

You are trying to fit yourself in there so adjust your stance crouching and leaning into it. You are really trying to squeeze yourself into it so make yourself small enough, crouching and leaning forward.

A general rule that I have for our beach break barrels is once you get into one its time to think about getting out. Remember this is a rare occurrence and the wave will be clamping down soon. Momentum is key. There are running barrels and stalling barrels and sometimes both, but its your momentum that will get you through them. A forward stance can sometimes be the ticket at achieving this.

Front-side barrels seem to be the easiest for me but I’m very much a kook when it comes to riding backside tubes. They can be very intimidating as your back is to the wall and you feel like your going to get flipped forward at any moment. The trick is contorting your body to the shape of the wave and you will most likely have to grab that outside rail.

I have found that if you just charge through it and don’t give up you will survive longer inside. Getting tubed requires patience, experience, and dedication. So just keep pulling in!

Tuberiding Tips

  1. Ride boards that have momentum
  2. Never give up unless heading for disaster
  3. Use your hands to guide you trough
  4. Travel to barrel infested locations

Adam Smallwood is an avid surfer who began riding the waves of Great Lake storms before finding his way to Tofino.


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Tofino surfer Adam Smallwood explains how to ride barrels in this Tofino surfing article from Tofino Time Magazine.

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